The Card Condition Scale: From Mint to Damaged
What separates NM from LP, what to check in the corners and edges, and how much it affects price — the full explainer for the six condition grades used in every haklaf listing.
Updated 12 July 2026
haklaf's condition scale has six grades from best to worst: MINT, NM, LP, MP, HP, and DMG. Each grade is set by four criteria — corners, edges, surface, and centering — and it directly drives price: the same card can be worth anywhere from 100% of its Mint price down to just 5–15% if it's graded DMG (damaged).
Why condition drives price
A card's condition is the first thing that determines its value, right after the card's identity itself (which card, which print run, how rare) — and after you've confirmed the card is genuine in the first place, per our fake-detection guide. Two identical cards can be worth very different amounts purely because of condition.
Condition vs. numeric grading
This scale is the seller's own self-assessment of a raw card — not a professional inspection. Grading is a completely different process: an outside company like PSA or CGC opens the card, examines it against the same four criteria (corners, edges, surface, centering) to a far stricter standard, and returns it sealed in a slab with a numeric score (usually 1 to 10) and a certificate number you can verify.
The six condition grades
Looks like it just came out of the pack. No visible wear at all — not on close inspection, and not under raking light either.
- Corners: perfectly sharp, no rounding and no worn edges.
- Edges: even and smooth, no whitening and no roughness.
- Surface: glossy and clean — no scratches, no print lines, no bubbling in the lamination.
- Centering: near-perfect — the border gap is usually no worse than 55/45.
Estimated value drop: The baseline for every other grade — 100% of market price.
Photo tip: Shoot under even, direct light at a straight angle, plus one close-up of at least one corner showing there's no rounding.
Essentially perfect, with at most one tiny flaw visible only up close. This is the grade most collectors expect from a card sleeved right out of the pack.
- Corners: nearly sharp — maybe one faint sign of wear on a single corner.
- Edges: almost entirely clean, possibly one very thin whitening line at one spot.
- Surface: almost entirely clean — no scratches visible without a close-up.
- Centering: good, typically up to about 60/40.
Estimated value drop: About 85–95% of the Mint price for the same card.
Photo tip: Photograph both sides, and add a close-up of the corner with the minor flaw so the buyer sees exactly what "near" means.
Wear that's visible at normal viewing distance, but it doesn't visibly damage the card. Still displays nicely.
- Corners: slight rounding starting on one or two corners.
- Edges: light whitening visible along part of the edge.
- Surface: maybe one or two faint scratches, not affecting the artwork or text.
- Centering: can be more off, sometimes up to about 70/30.
Estimated value drop: About 65–80% of the Mint price for the same card.
Photo tip: Use raking (angled) side light to bring out edge-whitening lines, and photograph all four corners separately.
Wear that's hard to miss. The card is still whole and usable, but it clearly shows use.
- Corners: clear rounding on several corners, sometimes a small tear starting at one.
- Edges: noticeable whitening along most of the edge.
- Surface: scratches visible to the naked eye, and possibly one light crease that doesn't break the card stock.
- Centering: usually noticeably off.
Estimated value drop: About 40–60% of the Mint price for the same card.
Photo tip: Photograph every flaw (scratch, crease, corner) as its own close-up, in addition to one overall shot of the whole card.
Significant damage that's obvious at a glance, but the card is still intact and fully identifiable — text and artwork still legible.
- Corners: heavy rounding, sometimes small tears on several corners.
- Edges: heavy whitening and roughness along the whole edge.
- Surface: multiple creases, deeper scratches, and possibly a light stain or water mark.
- Centering: sometimes badly off, to the point the frame nearly touches the edge.
Estimated value drop: About 20–35% of the Mint price for the same card.
Photo tip: Document every flaw as its own photo — crease, stain, torn edge — so the buyer isn't surprised after the sale.
Beyond heavy wear — actual structural damage: a tear running through the card, a large water stain, writing on the card, or a missing piece. Worth mostly for gameplay or set completion, not display.
- Corners: actually torn or missing, not just rounded.
- Edges: tears along the edge, not just whitening.
- Surface: a water stain, writing, or a deep crease that breaks the card stock.
- Centering: mostly irrelevant — the structural flaw is the real issue.
Estimated value drop: About 5–15% of the Mint price, usually gameplay or set-completion value only.
Photo tip: Photograph the main flaw in strong light without trying to hide it — transparency here prevents disputes after the sale.
Comparison table
| Grade | Short definition | Estimated value drop |
|---|---|---|
| MINT · Mint | No wear at all, even under raking light | 100% (baseline) |
| NM · Near Mint | At most one tiny flaw, visible only up close | About 85–95% |
| LP · Lightly Played | Wear visible at normal distance, artwork untouched | About 65–80% |
| MP · Moderately Played | Clear wear, possibly one light crease | About 40–60% |
| HP · Heavily Played | Damage obvious at a glance, card still whole and legible | About 20–35% |
| DMG · Damaged | Real structural damage: tear, water stain, or writing | About 5–15% |
FAQ
Who decides a listing's condition grade?
The seller, using this scale. It's a self-assessment, not an outside inspection — so it's important to photograph the card clearly and describe every flaw honestly, to avoid disputes with the buyer.
What's the difference between "Near Mint" (NM) and a 9 or 10 from professional grading?
This scale is a general written description, while professional grading (PSA, CGC) gives an exact numeric score based on a much stricter inspection. A card a seller tags NM won't necessarily score high once graded — sometimes the surprise runs the other way. Full details in the grading-from-Israel guide.
How do you decide between Lightly Played (LP) and Moderately Played (MP)?
Rule of thumb: if the flaw is visible at normal viewing distance but doesn't touch the artwork or text, it's usually LP. If the flaw is obvious at a glance and includes something like a crease or a small corner tear, it's MP. When in doubt, describe the lower condition and back it up with a photo.
How much is a Damaged (DMG) card worth?
Usually just a fraction of the same card's Mint price — mostly gameplay or set-completion value, not collector value. It's still worth listing at a fair price, especially for a rare card.
Should you photograph the card for every condition grade?
Yes. A real photo of the actual card (not a catalog image) is what makes a condition claim credible. Always include an overall shot of both sides, plus a close-up of the specific flaw that justifies the chosen grade.