Single cards for sale
Listings for single cards, usually the cheapest and most direct way to get a specific card compared with opening boxes. Most listings are raw, meaning the seller set the condition on the MINT to DMG scale, so check the corners, edges, surface and centering in the photos before reaching out. Our condition scale guide explains what to look for at each grade and how it affects the price.
Guides that will help
Frequently asked questions
What do the NM, LP and MP condition grades mean?
The scale has six grades from best to worst: MINT, NM, LP, MP, HP and DMG. A rule of thumb for LP versus MP: if you can see the flaw at normal viewing distance but it does not touch the artwork or text, it is LP; if it stands out immediately and includes a crease or a small corner tear, it is MP. When in doubt, describe the lower grade.
Will a card marked NM get a 9 or 10 at grading?
Not necessarily. The scale is a verbal description set by the seller, while professional grading assigns a numeric score after a far stricter inspection. A card tagged NM can come back lower than expected, so judge by the photos rather than the tag alone.
What should I check when I have the card in hand?
Compare it with the listing photos, check corners, edges, surface and centering against the declared grade, and for Pokémon cards run the light and print-quality tests from the fake-spotting guide. Pay only after the inspection, at the meet-up, never in advance.